How to Choose Developer for Hair Color

Hair developer is an essential part of the coloring process. The active ingredient in developer is hydrogen peroxide, which helps to open your hair cuticles. The volume of developer you choose when you dye your hair will determine how light or dark your hair color will appear. Choosing the right volume of developer, as well as combining it with hair dye correctly, will help to ensure that your hair turns out just as beautiful as you imagined.

[Edit]Things You Should Know

• Select 10-volume developer to lift your hair by 1 shade, 20-volume to lift 2 shades, or 30-volume to lift 3-4 shades. 40-volume may cause hair damage.
• Look for dye and developer that are sold together so the developer will be the right strength for the color on the package.
• Check the mixing instructions on the packaging. Most developer to dye ratios are 1 part hair color to 2 parts developer.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Selecting the Developer Volume

1. Use volume 10 developer to lift your color a single level. Volume 10 is the weakest developer level, as it contains only 3% hydrogen peroxide. Volume 10 is a good option if you are going just a bit darker than your current hair color and you do not need to lift, or remove, any of your existing color.^[1]
   
   • It is also recommended if you have thin or fine hair, as it will not be too strong.
   • This developer is also ideal if you are going to be using toner on your hair because it will balance out the toner. You may need to use toner if your hair color is brassy.
   • Level 10 is great if you're just trying to deposit a little color—for instance your hair is dark brown and you want to make it black.
   • Each increment of 10 represents another level of color that can be lifted.
2. Choose volume 20 developer to change your hair color by 1 to 2 shades. Volume 20 is the most popular developer level, as it contains 6% hydrogen peroxide, which is a moderate amount. This option is also good if you want to cover grey hairs.^[2]
   
   • Volume 20 is good for thick hair, as it will be strong enough to open your hair cuticles.
   • Volume 20 is the best for gray hairs because a higher number will lift the color from all the surrounding hairs, exposing and emphasizing the gray instead of covering it.
3. Opt for volume 30 developer to change your color by 3 to 4 shades. Volume 30 contains 9% hydrogen peroxide and is ideal for altering your hair several shades. It is pretty strong and should only be used on thick or coarse hair, as it can damage thin or fine hair.^[3]
   
   • Many store-bought hair dye and developer packets contain volume 20 or volume 30 developer.
   • This developer might be good if you're, say, a sandy blonde and are aiming for a sunny golden blonde.
4. Avoid using volume 40 developer so you do not damage your hair. Volume 40 is not recommended for non-professional use, as it is very strong and can dry out your hair if it is not applied correctly. This developer level is often only used for major hair color changes and should not be used at home.^[4]
   
   • If you believe you require volume 40 to properly dye your hair, go to your local salon and allow a professional to dye your hair for you.

[Edit]Buying the Developer

1. Look for hair dye and developer sold together for an easy option. Developer is often sold with hair dye in a package, so you don't have to worry about choosing the right volume. Getting them together is ideal because the developer will be the right strength for the color on the package.^[5]
   
   • However, keep in mind that the hair color will likely look different on you than it does on the model on the box. Your hair color will most likely turn out a shade or two darker or lighter than the image on the box.
2. Buy the developer separately if you bought a tube of dye. If you bought a lone tube of hair dye, get the developer separately. Choose the developer volume you need. Buying developer separately may help you achieve the desired results.^[6]\
   
   • If you bought boxed dye with the developer included, it is not a good idea to buy separate developer. Use the developer in the box for the best results.
   • You may want to purchase the same brand to of dye and developer to ensure that they will work well together.
3. Purchase more developer and hair color than you think you might need. Running out of developer and hair color when you are halfway into the dyeing process can cause your hair to come out uneven or improperly dyed. Avoid this by getting an extra box of developer and hair color so you have it on hand.^[7]
   
   • A good rule of thumb is to get at least 2 to 3 boxes of hair color and developer for long hair (past your shoulders) and 1 to 2 boxes of hair color and developer for short hair (above your shoulders).

[Edit]Combining the Developer and Hair Dye

1. Wear gloves and a hairdresser's cape. Wearing latex or nitrile gloves will protect your hands from the dye. Put on a pair of clean gloves before mixing and applying the dye. You should also put on a hairdresser’s cape or an old shirt to avoid getting dye or developer on your clothes.^[8]
   
   • To protect your bathroom or kitchen counters, spread newspaper out around the sink.
2. Identify the developer to dye ratio on the package. Most developer to dye ratios are 1 part hair color to 2 parts developer. Check the ratio on the hair dye package to be sure you are using the recommended amount.^[9]
   
   • If you are not sure about the ratio, don't guess. If you don't mix the right ratio, your hair color may not come out as desired. Ask a professional hair stylist or visit a salon and allow them to dye your hair for you.^[10]
3. Mix the developer and the dye together. Combine the correct amounts of developer and hair dye together in a plastic bowl. Mix the developer and dye together using a plastic spoon. Make sure the dye and developer are well combined. Then, apply the mixture to your hair as desired.^[11]
   
   • If you want to dye all of your hair, then apply the dye to your whole head starting at the ends and working up toward the roots of your hair.
   • If you just want to highlight your hair, you will need to section your hair and apply the dye to specific sections only. You can use foil strips to wrap each section and prevent the dye from getting on the surrounding strands.

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

1. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/hair-dye-tricks/
2. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/hair-dye-tricks/
3. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/hair-dye-tricks/
4. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/hair-dye-tricks/
5. ↑ https://www.allure.com/story/hair-color-hacks
6. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/hair-dye-tricks/
7. ↑ http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a586/home-hair-color-1110/
8. ↑ http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a586/home-hair-color-1110/
9. ↑ http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a586/home-hair-color-1110/
10. ↑ [v161640_b01]. 13 November 2020.
11. ↑ http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a586/home-hair-color-1110/