How to Grow a Tomato Plant

If you grow fruits and vegetables, chances are you've thought of growing tomatoes. With so many varieties, delicious flavors, and health benefits, what's not to love? With proper care in the planting, growing, and harvesting stages, you can enjoy a successful crop this year and for years to come. You can learn how to grow tomatoes from a start or from a young plant by following some simple strategies.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Choosing a Location for Your Plant

1. Plant directly in the ground, if possible. You can plant almost any variety and don’t have to water your plants as often as you would if they were in containers. This is also a method to consider if you want a large yield of fruit.
   
   • You’ll have to find a spot that receives 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. If soil-borne diseases break out, you’ll have a difficult time sterilizing the entire area or replacing the soil. These gardens are more vulnerable to moles, gophers, birds, squirrels, and deer.^[1]
2. Create raised beds. This is a great option if you’re concerned about pollutants in your soil. You could even replace the soil if disease breaks out or if necessary. The non-compact soil allows for better drainage and aeration than in-ground gardens. If you suffer from back or leg pain, you have the advantage of not having to bend over as much.
   
   • As for disadvantages, you’ll have to leave enough space between beds for efficient maintenance and harvesting. You’ll also have to pay up front for materials, such as untreated lumber and soil.^[2] Raised beds also dry out faster than planting in the ground.
3. Use containers if you have limited space. Some containers are more portable than others. They’re great if you don’t have much yard space. However, they require more frequent watering, since the soil dries out quickly. You’ll also need to invest in additional support structures if you live in a climate that gets high winds. Some popular forms of containers are:
   
   • Upcycled buckets are cheap and easy to acquire. They’re usually lightweight enough to transport, but you have to drill your own drainage holes. Dark plastic can overheat and leach toxic chemicals into the soil. Metal buckets can rust and stain your patio or deck.
   • Barrels are attractive and provide enough space for roots to flourish. Just keep in mind that they’re difficult to move and will eventually rot. You’ll also have to drill your own drainage holes.
4. Install window boxes in upper-story windows. You can water and harvest your tomatoes simply by opening your window. You’ll also have to deal with fewer pests the higher up you live. Stick with small varieties like cherry tomatoes to avoid toppling. You’ll also have to anchor the boxes to your window(s).^[3]
   
5. Hang your plant(s). Choose this option if you want to avoid stooping over your plants. Because they’re not in or close to the ground, you’ll have to water them more frequently. They also need strong hardware to anchor them in place.
   
   • Hanging baskets can be adapted to upper-story apartments by hanging them from the window sill. Just keep in mind that your options will be limited to small varieties like cherry tomatoes.
   • Upside-down planters can be made from upcycled buckets. In this state, tomato plants don’t need to be staked. Birds are less likely to pick at tomatoes because they have nowhere to perch. However, the unabsorbed water may drip onto leaves and fruits, increasing the risk of disease. Inverted hangers also produce small yields.^[4]

[Edit]Planting the Tomatoes

1. Buy your plants. You can find tomato plants at nurseries, garden centers, and even at farmers’ markets. Choose healthy looking plants and make sure to buy the tomato plants close to when you plan on planting them.
   
2. Add lots of compost to the garden soil. Tomatoes demand a growing medium rich in organic matter. If you don't make your own compost, use store-bought compost that includes granite dust and topsoil. You'll need about 5 to 8 pounds per square foot (25 to 40 kilograms per square meter). Turn compost into the top 3 inches (6 to 8 cm).^[5]
   
   • Before setting your seedling or plant in the soil, toss a couple handfuls of organic material or egg shells in the bottom of your planting hole. As the roots grow deeper, they'll hit this layer of nutrients just in time to really boost your fruit output.
3. Monitor the soil pH. Tomatoes thrive in mildly acidic soil. Highly acidic soil can leach calcium from the plant and lead to blossom end rot. Keep the soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil tests above 6.8, water your tomatoes with a mixture of equal parts cold coffee and water. You could also add a mulch pf pine needles. If your soil tests below 6.0, use either dolomite lime or calcium sources like crushed eggshells or calcite.^[6]
   
4. Choose a sunny spot. Place tomato plants in full sun. If you live in a cooler growing zone, aim for at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. If you live in a warm to hot zone, pick a spot that gets some shade in the afternoon.^[7]
   
   • Keep in mind that tomato plants can take full sun even in warmer climates. You will just need to keep the soil well-mulched and watered.
5. Space the plants 18 to 36 inches (45 to 90 cm) apart. This is usually enough space to allow you to get in between the plants to water, weed, and harvest. If you live in a hot climate, space plants apart. This distance allows plants in cages to shade each other’s fruit, preventing burn.^[8]
   
6. Transplant the plant deeply. Bury about 50 to 80 percent of the plant. Pack the soil firmly around the roots. Make sure the roots are completely covered.^[9] Make sure to trim off the lower leaves of the plant and do not bury them. If you bury them then they will rot.
   
   • When removing the plants from their pots, tap the bottom of the pot and try to get the roots and soil all in one piece. This is important because ripping the roots apart could damage the plant.

[Edit]Caring for Your Plant

1. Cage or stake your tomatoes. This supports the tomato vine. Set them up at the time of planting. Don’t wait more than 14 days.^[10] If you prefer, you could make your own tomato cages.
   
   • A cage should be at least 48 inches (1.2 m) tall. Cages can bend if the plants get heavy and sometimes collapse in summer storms. Remove leaves and secondary stems as the plant grows.^[11]
   • A stake should be at least 0.5 x 2 inches (1.3 x 5 cm) wide and 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) long. Pound stakes about 12 to 24 inches (30 cm to 60 cm) deep, at least 2 inches (5 cm) away from the plant. Secure the plant to the stake using loosely knotted, double-looped strips of cloth or garden twine that won't strangle the plant. Stakes can be made of bamboo, scrap wood, electrical conduit, or iron bar.^[12]
2. Water every 7 to 10 days. Do this after the first week. Give them about 16 ounces (about 500 mL) of warm water per plant every day. Drip or soaker hose watering aimed at the roots is better than overhead watering, which can encourage diseases.^[13]
   
   • To prevent mold or fungal diseases, water plants in the morning.
   • Water less frequently after 10 days. Ensure plants are receiving 1 to 3 inches (2.5 cm to 7.6 cm) of rain weekly. If not, give each plant about 2 gallons (about 7.5 L) per plant per week, beginning by about the end of the second week after transplanting.^[14]
   • Increase water as the plants get larger and when weather is hotter. Water deeply 2 to 3 times weekly, about . (about 3 to 4 L) each time. Make sure that the soil is moist, but not drenched.^[15]
3. Apply mulch. After one or two weeks, surround the plants with a mulch of straw or dried grass. This should control weeds and keep the soil moist during dry weather. The mulch should be about an inch (2.5 cm) thick and surround at least a circle 12 inches (about 30 cm) in diameter around the stem.^[16]
   
4. Choose a fertilizer. Tomatoes can grow very well organically if the soil is enriched with organic matter. If you choose a chemical fertilizer, look for a vegetable fertilizer. Use half the recommended concentration of chemical fertilizer per gallon/liter (using package directions).^[17]
   
   • Do not use lawn fertilizer. The ratio of minerals in lawn fertilizer is for growing stems and leaves.
   • Over-fertilization can cause plants to grow too quickly, leaving them more susceptible to disease and insects.
5. Shake your plant poles or cages gently. This increases fruit production by evenly distributing pollen. Do this once or twice each week for about 5 seconds. Start this practice when flowering begins.^[18]
   

[Edit]Addressing Common Issues

1. Check for "suckers." These are branches that grow in the joint between the main stem and other branches. They use some of the plant's nutrients as they grow. Leaving suckers will produce more, but smaller, fruit. Pinch them off for larger fruits.^[19]
   
2. Beat the heat. If you live in a hot climate, grow heat-tolerant varieties like Phoenix, Heatmaster, and Solar Fire. Find a spot that receives full sun in the morning and filtered sun in the afternoon. Between 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM, protect your plants with shade cloths.
   
   • If your fruit starts to ripen during an intense heat wave with nights over and days over , harvest the fruit early. It will stop ripening in intense heat.
3. Control humidity. Tomato plants require high humidity (80-90 percent) during the day and moderate humidity (65-75 percent at night) to produce fruit. Humidity over 90 percent and below 65 percent can trigger blossom end rot. If you’re growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, use a sling psychrometer to measure humidity. To increase humidity outdoors or in the greenhouse, try misting the plants. Decrease humidity in the greenhouse by increasing ventilation.^[20]
   
   • If you live in a very humid climate, your best bet for outdoor tomatoes is to grow humidity-tolerant varieties, such as Ferline, Legend, Fantasio.^[21]
4. Prevent blossom-end rot. Blossom-end rot is the blackening and eating away of the bottom of a tomato fruit. Once you see it, it’s too late to save the plant. Prevention is your best bet. Calcium deficiency causes blossom-end rot.^[22] To prevent this problem:
   
   • Bring about one gallon (about 4 L) of water and a tablespoon (15 mL) of lemon juice to a boil.
   • Add 6 tablespoons of bone meal to the water. Stir well. Don’t worry about completely dissolving the solution.
   • Cook covered for 30 minutes.
   • Allow it to cool.
   • Feed 1 quart (about 1 L) of solution to each plant at the leaves and roots.
   • Repeat the treatment a second time in 3 to 5 days.^[23]
   • You can also sprinkle crushed eggshells around the plants to add calcium to the soil.
5. Make your own bird repellant. Put red ornaments around the top of the tomato cages. Birds will think they’re tomatoes and peck at them. The ornaments’ hard, tasteless surfaces will confuse the birds. This will make them leave your tomatoes alone.
   
   • Keep in mind that this will only work temporarily. Before the fruit ripens on your tomato plants, drape netting over the plants to keep the birds away.
6. Bring chickens and ducks into the garden. You can do this if you live in the country or in a city that allows it. Chickens and ducks enjoy eating slugs and tomato hornworms. Without control, slugs and hornworms can kill your plants by eating the leaves.^[24]
   
7. Control slugs with cardboard. Use the cardboard rolls from toilet paper or paper towels around the bottom the stem while the plant is still young. The texture of the cardboard makes the stem impossible for slugs to climb.^[25]
   
8. Grow plants that attract beneficial predators. Some good choices are calendula, zinnias, marigolds, and nasturtiums. The ladybugs and braconid wasps they attract get to eat the aphids and hornworms that would otherwise destroy your tomatoes.^[26]
   

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Tips

• If the stem or roots are damaged, you can often save the plant by burying much of its above-ground stem and lower branches again, as you did to 75 percent of the plant when you first placed it in the ground. The little hairs on the stem and branches grow into roots.
• Use manure tea for fertilizer. If you have access to rotted manure, you can make your own fertilizer. Put the manure in pantyhose or cheesecloth. Place the "tea bag" in a 5-gallon (20 L) bucket and fill the bucket with water. Allow the "tea" to steep for a few days. Dilute the tea 1:1 with water.
• You can grow the tomatoes you like by saving seeds. However, you have to soak them in a cup of warm water with some juice from the tomato for about a week first. Then, rinse them and allow the seeds to dry. Save the seeds and plant them the following year.
• Suckers that have been pinched off can be rooted in moist soil to produce new tomato plants. However, this practice requires a larger sucker. Do this only if you live in a climate with a long growing season, since these plants will reach maturity later than the rest of your plants.^[27]
• If you decide to cut back suckers on your "indeterminate" (not shrub type) tomato plants, consider not pinching off the whole sucker. Let it grow just long enough to produce some leaves and pinch off its tip. This will keep it from putting too much effort into growing a long branch.

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

1. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/9-ways-to-grow-tomatoes/
2. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/9-ways-to-grow-tomatoes/
3. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/9-ways-to-grow-tomatoes/
4. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/9-ways-to-grow-tomatoes/
5. ↑ http://www.growingagreenerworld.com/tips-for-growing-great-tomatoes-starting-off-right/
6. ↑ http://www.grow-it-organically.com/changing-soil-ph.html
7. ↑ http://www.almanac.com/plant/tomatoes
8. ↑ http://www.harvesttotable.com/2011/06/vegetable_crop_yields_plants_p/
9. ↑ http://pallensmith.com/tag/tomatoes/
10. ↑ https://www.almanac.com/plant/tomatoes
11. ↑ http://www.tomato.org/Growing-Tomatoes.html
12. ↑ http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G6461
13. ↑ http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/drip-irrigation-secrets-of-a-professional-grower-zbcz1405
14. ↑ https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/368/
15. ↑ http://www.tomatodirt.com/watering-tomatoes-faqs.html
16. ↑ https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ask-toh/mulching-tomato-garden
17. ↑ http://orgprints.org/24273/7/24273.pdf
18. ↑ http://garden.org/articles/articles.php?q=show&id=1217
19. ↑ https://bonnieplants.com/library/how-to-prune-tomatoes/
20. ↑ https://cals.arizona.edu/hydroponictomatoes/system.htm
21. ↑ https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=217
22. ↑ http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/blossom-end-rot-prevention-and-treatment-zbcz1502
23. ↑ http://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/_images/programs/hgic/Publications/HG42_Soil_Amendments_and_Fertilizers.pdf
24. ↑ http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/pest-control/organic-pest-control-zm0z11zsto
25. ↑ http://lifehacker.com/plant-basil-with-tomatoes-for-a-natural-pest-repellant-1771745856
26. ↑ http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/pest-control/organic-pest-control-zm0z11zsto?pageid=4#PageContent4
27. ↑ http://www.caes.uga.edu/newswire/story.html?storyid=4790